80/20 1" T Slot Rail - 4.02" Length
Aluminum - 80/20
1
The 80/20 Aluminum 3D Printer Frame – large, sturdy, and utterly customizable.
Great for novices and serious printers alike, this DIY 3D printer frame is just the beginning. And why settle for anything less? The heavy-duty aluminum framing and connectors in the above design are meant to carry weight and ensure high levels of accuracy when printing.
In addition, the frame itself snaps together easily, and the options are unlimited. Add-ons and connectors for the modular 80/20 aluminum framing system can be sourced globally, and the frame itself can be disassembled or modified very quickly.
Need to add mounts, wiring, or more paneling? No problem. And remember, you can grab all that stuff - and even design it all in 3D - right here on our website.
Also, know someone who’s looking to get into 3D printing? This kit would make for a very user-friendly first experience – or possibly even a nice gift - for someone just getting started. The build-process is simple and quick, but the design itself doesn’t sacrifice in terms of quality or future utility.
Ideal for: 3D printing, DIY home projects, novices, experts, small businesses, and more.
Ready to build your own already? Great! Just see our step-by-step instructions below, and you’ll be up and printing in no time.
Step 1
Ready for a fun DIY build?
Please note: this build guide pays a little extra consideration to measurement, due to the high levels of accuracy needed for 3D printing. However, the following steps are just a guide. You are, of course, free to assemble your frame however you prefer.
First, you’ll want to gather four 33” T-Slot Rails, and all 24 of your Angle Joints.
Then, go ahead and lay the four 33” rails right next to each other horizontally. Use a flat surface (like another T-Slot Rail) to line these up against at the bottom, so that they are all at exactly the same “height.”
Then, decide exactly which lengths you would like your horizontal “rungs” to be at. For example, the diagram has the lower rungs just above the bottom, and the highest rung at the very top; but these heights are really up to you. (and don’t worry, you can always adjust them later!)
Once you’ve decided, use your tape measure to begin installing Angle Joints one at a time on each of your 33” rungs at the exact heights you need them at. Each 33’ rail will need a total of six Angle Joints, positioned as per the diagram above. (this should be easy to both measure and eyeball if all the 33” rails are lined up next to each other).
Now it’s time to finish the frame. To do so, simply attach your 23.5” T-Slot Rails to each Angle Joint one at a time.
When you’re done, you should have a sturdy – and hopefully level – 3D printer frame.
Step 2
Almost there! Just need to install your acrylic panel.
To do so, attach four Single Panel Hangers facing inward in each corner of your frame (on the top of the bottom rungs). Then, attach your panel to these hangers. And please, take care not to damage the acrylic by attempting to overtighten these connections.
And that’s it. You’re done!
We hope you love your new 3D printer frame.
Happy printing!